Posts by Lee Jensen

  • Hard News: Bowie,

    Two cents worth - as far as neglected treats go, I've always liked Jump They Say, from Black Tie White Noise, and as is often my circumstance, I saw (rather than heard) it first. Directed by Mark Romanek (who also directed the video for the Bjork penned Madonna song Bedtime Story, and interestingly, the more recent Swifty Shake it Off) apart from the fascinating intertextuality, David looks positively carnivorous, especially in the blue-room-w-mikes vignettes (1:04, 2:24). And the hands, always the dancing hands...

    Might I also remind you of The Associates and their fine cover of Boys Keep Swinging (no link, sorry).

    Wellington • Since Mar 2014 • 3 posts Report Reply

  • Notes & Queries: Time & Perfume,

    So it look like I'll have to work on those Italics...

    Wellington • Since Mar 2014 • 3 posts Report Reply

  • Notes & Queries: Time & Perfume,

    Thank you David for this post.
    I feel I should offer some context, because this is an area of great interest to me.
    I read Denyse Beaulieu's _Perfume Lover_, the account of the creation of the fragrance _Séville à l'aube_ in 2012, and it catalysed something in me. I bought the Turin/Sanchez A-Z guide, and a little black book, and I started making notes and lists…
    David, you raise a issue, albeit in a tacit way, for those of us who've caught the bug - just how far we are here from the culture and society that created and wore the original _Mitsouko, Iris Gris, Fougere Royale_... Yes, there's the internet. But I worry about the provenance of some samples; how can I really _know_ that I am smelling what I'm supposed to be? Even more cruelly, I can never really smell _No. 5_ as it was created in 1921. And I find a certain tension in the romanticisation of the vintage scents, the newer reformulations loved partly through a nostalgic reverie.

    So in the spirit of picking your battles, I made the decision to collect the fragrances around me right now, to spend money on the contemporary creative acts rather than spend the time and energy tracking down vintage material. Not that you can't do both of course, but perfume, especially _niche_ perfume, is an expensive hobby. Much of what I have now I've picked up in Paris and Italy, a little bit online (though the Etat Libre d'Orange samples arrived smashed), and at Peony and Klein's in Melbourne.

    For Kebabette, might I suggest _Paper Passion_ by Geza Shoen, devised with Karl Lagerfeld for the publisher Steidl and Wallpaper; it is intended to smell of new paper, of books. It's a little austere, something we might expect from Geza Shoen, but it does speak to my interest in the conceptual playfulness of a lot of contemporary fragrance houses: Etat, the fragrant empires of Parfum d'Empire, the work of Blood Concept, the characters of Histoires de Parfums…

    So for Kebabette (and Ian) even lovelier is _Biblioteca de Babel_ by Argentinian house Fueguia 1833 - as they describe it "cedar shelves, heavy leather bookbindings, vellum leaves, the smell of ink. The complex environment of an old book is brought to life". Neater still, the library of books belongs to Jorge Borges.

    I'm going back to Paris in November, following my nose of course. I've got a list that's getting longer and longer (so thank goodness for the check-in being about weight not the number of bags). And I have a question: has anyone been to the Versailles Osmotheque, and considers it a worthwhile visit?
    Also, if I can be of use to anyone traveling in Italy, between Roma and Milano, in locating niche perfume stores, I'd be delighted.

    Wellington • Since Mar 2014 • 3 posts Report Reply