I actually wandered around Brisbane for half hour before I found anything faintly resembling a Melbourne noodle bar. In the end I headed for Griffith University, figuring students equals cheap food. So now as I write this I'm seated at a leaner bar and looking through a picture window at a tropical garden of palms and big weird plants. Next I'll go find a net cafe to send, and my day will be done. The wander was fruitful though, for a number reasons I will now explain.
Cairns was a blast. I took the dive course and did manage a total of six dives on the Barrier Reef (including the Introductory dive on Saturday). Absolutely worth every cent. If you ever have the chance to dive the reef, or even snorkel, do it. But, if you do get the opportunity, there are some tricks for young players.
#1. Shop around for a dive course. As I said the other day, there are stacks of competition so you can always get a good deal. I went for the "special upgrade" (read "bait") to a two day/one night liveaboard out on the reef. Which considering my seasickness was a good thing (the reef slows the waves, but the transit can be through some two hours of heaving seas). This all cost $319. But. After you factor in the hidden costs like medical certificate ($45), reef tax ($20), and having to buy booze/snacks on board you're looking at closer to $400. Main meals, coffee/tea are provided though.
Again, worth every cent and the time it will take me to repay the card.
Trick #2. BIG hidden costs. The liveaboard was on a fairly stately boat for only $319, where it would normally cost $480, an apparent saving of $160. But if you'd like a third day aboard then you'll pay this money and the $50 to upgrade to three day/two night. I deliberately booked a non-refundable flight yesterday to stop myself doing just that. And it's a good thing, the tourist glamour almost overtook me, and my money.
Trick #3. Make sure your liveaboard isn't heading back to harbour to refuel on any of your days. This one really pissed me off. Luckily I was in a cabin on one of the Kangaroo Explorer's lower decks, so was spared the worst of the buffeting in the huge seas we had to traverse. In the morning there were more than a few bleary eyes and angry punters. We had a 6am dive and the noise while the crew restocked the boat at 1am was simply phenomenal.
Trick #4. The hard sell. I can't say what the other courses were like, but SSI made an obvious attempt to sell us all kinds of crap at ridiculous prices. At one point I nearly parted with $500 worth of gear that was apparently 20% off. I left it overnight to think about it, and didn't buy. As it was I grabbed a too pricey mask and snorkel.
So a word of advice. DO NOT buy anything or any gear at the course. I highly recommend the course itself, and know the accessories are how these guys make their money, but don't do it. They tried to sell me flippers for $300 for example. I've since seen a similar pair that was more than adequate for my needs for a mere $70. And just yesterday I saw the same mask for $50 less than I paid.
Like someone at the hostel said over a couple of beers, why buy gear at the most expensive place in Australia? Another indication was the $90 dive booties I just saw in a sports store for $30.
Otherwise, SSI did a great course. The class was a little too big to get the trainers full attention if you were having trouble, but still managed to walk away feeling completely confident about my safety and water skills, and am 100% ready to explore a new world. I got to see all kinds of corals, cute tropical fish, turtles, giant clams, cuttlefish, creepy sea cucumber things, big scary fish, and pretend to be drinking beer, underwater, with sunglasses on (available on DVD for $60).
The downside? I picked up a cold and now can't dive again till it clears... Looks like Brisbane is going to be shore leave! The cold must have been from sleeping off my hangover under a tree in the park after the final night shin-dig. Mr. Dive Trainer, damn those pesky sambuca depth-charges.